April 2026: Handweaving.net Draft #36980

Woven by Jennifer Shuster-Clark

Finished cloth - 20 Shaft (click image to enlarge)

I had volunteered to weave a sample for the guild, but I found myself in a situation where all my looms were warped up and occupied.  My AVL had a 40-shaft straight draw threaded with an ambitiously long (for me!) warp.  I decided that I should try and find a draft that I could weave on that current warp.  I always wonder if other weavers enjoy seeing samples woven on many, many shafts or does it make them slightly depressed with shaft envy?  

One of the advantages of having a lot of shafts is that you can treat your loom like multiple smaller looms lined up one after another.  For example, my 40-shaft loom could behave like two 20-shaft looms, but whatever happens on those first 20-shafts has to also happen on the second set of 20.  If I lift shaft 1, I also have to lift shift 21, and if I lift shaft 2, I also have to lift shaft 22, and so on. With this in mind, I went to Handweaving.net and started looking at different drafts for 20 shafts.  I kept returning to draft #36980 and decided it was a winner.  

When I look at this draft, I think it looks like crackers.  My finished sample, however, does not read as strongly.  In my excitement to get the sample washed and dried, I unfortunately did not take the time to set aside a piece of the cloth that would not be wet finished.  Add this to my list of things I “should do next time.”  I did, however, take a picture on the loom and it looks much more like the actual drawdown.  It would be interesting to explore how a different yarn or a tighter sett might make the finished cloth read more like the draft and more like the on-loom cloth.      

While the first sample was on the loom, my mind kept coming back to that question of shaft envy.  I thought it might be fun to take this draft and see if I could reduce it while still maintaining the intent of the original design.  As I mentioned, I see crackers in the draft and I wanted to maintain that look.  The first reduction, from 20 shafts to 10 shafts, was very easy.  All I did was delete shafts 11 through 20 from the draft!  (36980_10S.wif) This 10-shaft draft could again be woven on my warp by treating my loom like four 10-shaft looms.  Again, I feel like the final cloth does not read as strongly as the drawdown. 

What about compressing this draft even further?  I tried reducing it by half again and simply deleting shafts 6 through 10, but the result was not appealing.  I played around considerably with the draft, deleting a shaft here or there, starting over, deleting picks in the sequence, starting over, trying again, until I finally came to an 8-shaft draft (36980_8s.wif) that I liked.  I suspect that if one were to search Handweaving,net, they would find something very similar to this draft that I created through reduction. I did not weave up this draft, but again, I could have by treating my 40-shaft loom like five 8-shaft looms.  (Note: These WIFs will be available for download from the Guild website.)     

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Cloth on loom - 20 Shaft

Draft #36980 is Figure 2089 from Atlas de 4000 Armures, Louis Serrure, France, 1920.

Yarn: 10/2 unmercerized cotton in both the warp and weft

Sett: 22 EPI/22 PPI

Finishing: Machine wash and dry, hot iron

Shrinkage: 8%

Loom: AVL K-series

Drawdowns and WIFS:

20-SHAFT: DrawdownWIF

10-SHAFT: DrawdownWIF

8-SHAFT: DrawdownWIF

Bio:

Jennifer took her first weaving class just over 20 years ago, shortly after moving to Seattle.  She loves learning about different structures and using those structures to create her own designs.   

 
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March 2026: Snowflake Twill